We watch for another 20 minutes. At first we simply bask in seeing the tigress so relaxed and at ease amongst the trees and leaves. I am in awe of this magnificent and beautiful creature. We had been told the night before that recently the Bengali tiger was facing extinction. Yet, with great effort India and some of their neighboring countries have implemented plans to save it. The safari we are on is part of a new wave of eco-tourism. National Parks have always drawn hundreds of thousands of visitors to them and what better way to educate people than to allow them the opportunity to see a rare species in its accustomed habitat.
I love the idea of seeing creatures in their home surroundings. Healthy, vibrant and co-existing naturally amongst the other animals. In fact, as we are watching we notice a spotted deer walk near to the tigress, look her in the eye, and keep right on eating. Not bothered. Not stressed. I am sure that I will view nature in action--unecensored--before my eyes. Yet, to my amazement nothing happens. How interesting and totally unexpected! I make a mental note to ask Massan later about this peculiar incident.
The tigress finally gets up, stretches, and walks deep into the forest and out of our line of sight. All of us have many, many wonderful photos now so we are perfectly happy to be on our way. Coincidentally, it is also time for our break. We are on a full day safari and happen to be right around the half-way point. Just outside the entrance is a snack area that also sells masala chai. We welcome the delicious and hot fresh cup of tea.
What we are not prepared for is the amount of "paparazzi" we receive the rest of the day and into the next. Jeep drivers, local guides, visitors and VIP guests in luxury vehicles that had private drivers all want to shake Eric's hand or nod their thanks to him. We aren't clear as to why this is happening. Mr. Bahks translates for us that word quickly traveled that our jeep spotted the tiger. And, more to the point, it is Eric who found her. He is now seen as being personally blessed by the goddess Kali.
After the break, we travel into the forest and high grasses area. We see a herd of seven female elephants all with new-born babies eating grass. Near the smaller trees and lower grasses, hanumana langur monkeys play alongside the spotted deer and barking deer. We learn that monkeys have excellent hearing. Their stellar climbing skills come in handy if they hear a noise in the distance that could be trouble. Any sound that sets off their internal warning system sends them climbing the nearest tree. Standing on a branch they look to see where the predator is coming from. Once they spot the predator, they look in that direction and make a noise that alerts the deer. The deer, with keen awareness, notices where the monkey is looking and runs the opposite direction--away from danger.
Quite the sophisticated system! As we leave the park we feel so content, happy and amazed at the abundance of gifts shown to us. Mr. Bahks asks Massan now why the tiger did not attack the deer we saw earlier. Massan said that tigers are solo hunters and try to conserve all the energy they can. They prefer not to chase their prey very far. The fact that the deer had seen the tiger, the element of surprise was gone. Had the deer not spotted the tigress she most likely would have bounded on the deer in two to three strides and had breakfast. However, the deer now had the advantage because as soon as the tigress made the slightest movement the deer would run away. They are small, light and extremely fast. Gaining even a small head start is to their advantage.
Back at our camp that night we enjoy laughter, story's and shared excitement. After dinner there is a talk in the viewing room on wildlife conservation. Iman Khan, the speaker and Chief Naturalist, takes a moment during his speech to "thank the lucky couple from Yellowstone" for the tiger showing herself today. We smile and say 'you are welcome', but still don't feel we can take complete credit. A lot of synchronicities played out this day-- beyond even what I can comprehend. What I do know is that we feel deeply thankful and grateful for this trip so far. The people are beautiful, the scenery is breath-taking, the food is amazing and our accommodations are absolutely delightful.
A few days later we are heading back to Delhi where we will catch a flight the following day to spend time in the south of India. I notice something new in the car. Our driver, who is Sikh, has a burgundy and gold colored scarf tied around the rear-view mirror. I ask him about it. He excitedly tells us that the day we went out on jeep safari he had time to explore the area. He normally doesn't pray to Hindu deities since he is Sikh, but for us he made an exception. He found a temple to Kali and asked her to bless our day and show herself to us. He found out later about our good fortune. The next few hours pass quickly. He smiles the whole way. And, of course, so do we!
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